Trekking in Langtang: the hailstorm

The thunder was rumbling and the clouds were closing in as we made our way up towards Gosaikunda Lake. We stopped for a much-needed lunch break at the one and only lodge in Laurebina and took shelter from the looming weather. The dining hall of the lodge offered little respite as the winds picked up... Continue Reading →

Tour de’ Lumbini – Pedal for Peace

Having left Swayambunath at around 8am we arrived in Hetauda at 8:30pm, hot, tired and dusty, having lost several cyclists to accidents in the dark. Day one of the Tour de’ Lumbini had finally finished… A friend of mine had roped me into joining the Tour de’ Lumbini, a 4-day, 360km cycle rally, from Kathmandu... Continue Reading →

Messing about on the river in Nepal

The car picked us up from the hotel at a respectable 7:30am. This was already a novelty – private transport in something other than a clapped-out, rickety, old, 1980s Ford Fiesta. We drove through a maze of steep, narrow residential streets making our way out of the Kathmandu Valley to the main Prithivi Highway. After... Continue Reading →

Maha Shivaratri, Kathmandu

Maha Shivaratri or “Great Night of Shiva” is an annual Hindu celebration dedicated to the god Shiva, destroyer of evil, unusually solemn with all night prayers dedicated to overcoming darkness in life. In Nepal hundreds of thousands of pilgrims flock to Pashputinath. Pashputhinath, sitting on the banks of the Bagmati River, is one of the... Continue Reading →

The Jalori Pass, Himachal Pradesh

The Jalori Pass is an infamous pass in Himachal Pradesh, in north-west India, between the Beas and Sutlej river valleys. It seemed like a good idea to attempt it with my fully laden touring bike, Reggie, while I was cycling my circuitous route from Amritsar to Kathmandu. I set out from a lovely, little town... Continue Reading →

In Kathmandu

I find myself sitting in the same café in Thamel, the tourist district in Kathmandu, nearly a year after I was last here having a phone call with my manager back in UK finding out that I’d just lost my job. I’d been travelling in India and Nepal for six months and was not looking... Continue Reading →

Mission Amritsar

I’m not sure which was the hardest bit initially – asking my boss for a six months holiday, deciding what to pack for a six months holiday involving cycling and trekking in temperatures from -11°C to 43°C, or the logistics of transporting all my gear from my flat in London to a hotel up a... Continue Reading →

Train to Delhi

I was in India and hadn’t yet been on a local train. India is famous for it’s railways; I couldn’t not take a train. The 800-kilometre journey from Varanasi to Delhi seemed like the place to start. The troubles started as soon as I tried to book a ticket. There’s a fairly elaborate procedure for... Continue Reading →

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