Cycling in Kathmandu: Budanilkanth to Kopan

After a leisurely breakfast in my homestay, a short, gentle uphill ride took me northeast towards the the sprawling Kathmandu outskirts to the temple of Budanilkanth. The temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu, a Hindu deity (buda meaning ‘old’ in Nepali), but despite that there is a carving of Buddha on the forehead of the... Continue Reading →

Trekking in Langtang: the hailstorm

The thunder was rumbling and the clouds were closing in as we made our way up towards Gosaikunda Lake. We stopped for a much-needed lunch break at the one and only lodge in Laurebina and took shelter from the looming weather. The dining hall of the lodge offered little respite as the winds picked up... Continue Reading →

Tour de’ Lumbini – Pedal for Peace

Having left Swayambunath at around 8am we arrived in Hetauda at 8:30pm, hot, tired and dusty, having lost several cyclists to accidents in the dark. Day one of the Tour de’ Lumbini had finally finished… A friend of mine had roped me into joining the Tour de’ Lumbini, a 4-day, 360km cycle rally, from Kathmandu... Continue Reading →

Messing about on the river in Nepal

The car picked us up from the hotel at a respectable 7:30am. This was already a novelty – private transport in something other than a clapped-out, rickety, old, 1980s Ford Fiesta. We drove through a maze of steep, narrow residential streets making our way out of the Kathmandu Valley to the main Prithivi Highway. After... Continue Reading →

Maha Shivaratri, Kathmandu

Maha Shivaratri or “Great Night of Shiva” is an annual Hindu celebration dedicated to the god Shiva, destroyer of evil, unusually solemn with all night prayers dedicated to overcoming darkness in life. In Nepal hundreds of thousands of pilgrims flock to Pashputinath. Pashputhinath, sitting on the banks of the Bagmati River, is one of the... Continue Reading →

In Kathmandu

I find myself sitting in the same café in Thamel, the tourist district in Kathmandu, nearly a year after I was last here having a phone call with my manager back in UK finding out that I’d just lost my job. I’d been travelling in India and Nepal for six months and was not looking... Continue Reading →

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